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Can I hook these wires up to find the connection to a dead outlet?



The Next CEO of Stack OverflowIs it okay to use both the backwire holes and the side terminals on an electrical outlet?Six wires in outlet box, from 3 different circuits; 4 are hot?Are these my ground wires?Dead GFCI outlet(s), wire is liveZ-Wave outlet wiring - plugging in multiple black/white wires?Outlets are dead, but electricity is coming into the boxElectrical outlet that has 2 white wires, 1 black, 1 red, and a ground. Does it matter which white goes where?How to splice the wires once the outlet has been removed, and it's not the last item in the circuitCan I replace this light switch with a switch/outlet combination?Outlet with 3 sets of wires










2















I have an outlet in a small bar area that does not have any power coming in to the wires. It's been like this for as long as we've been here (4 years, house is 20 years old). I checked every breaker, every light switch, and every GFCI and it didn't appear to be attached to any of them. I found an empty receptacle in a cabinet in our mudroom with the 2 white wires, 2 black wires, and 1 ground wire. One of the black wires has 120v with one of the white wires while the other pair has zero.



I'm assuming the pair with 0v is going to my "dead" outlet. I have no idea which circuit it's on so I'm going to cut power to the entire house and put the black wires in a wire nut together and do the same thing for the white wires. Any issues with this? Do I need to do anything with the loose ground? Thanks for any comments/suggestions.



Missing connection?










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    When in doubt, hook wires together and hope your house doesn’t burn down. But in reality, I would hire an electrician who can operate a circuit tracer to figure out what is actually going on snd why there is no power on that circuit.

    – statueuphemism
    4 hours ago















2















I have an outlet in a small bar area that does not have any power coming in to the wires. It's been like this for as long as we've been here (4 years, house is 20 years old). I checked every breaker, every light switch, and every GFCI and it didn't appear to be attached to any of them. I found an empty receptacle in a cabinet in our mudroom with the 2 white wires, 2 black wires, and 1 ground wire. One of the black wires has 120v with one of the white wires while the other pair has zero.



I'm assuming the pair with 0v is going to my "dead" outlet. I have no idea which circuit it's on so I'm going to cut power to the entire house and put the black wires in a wire nut together and do the same thing for the white wires. Any issues with this? Do I need to do anything with the loose ground? Thanks for any comments/suggestions.



Missing connection?










share|improve this question









New contributor




Guest is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.















  • 1





    When in doubt, hook wires together and hope your house doesn’t burn down. But in reality, I would hire an electrician who can operate a circuit tracer to figure out what is actually going on snd why there is no power on that circuit.

    – statueuphemism
    4 hours ago













2












2








2








I have an outlet in a small bar area that does not have any power coming in to the wires. It's been like this for as long as we've been here (4 years, house is 20 years old). I checked every breaker, every light switch, and every GFCI and it didn't appear to be attached to any of them. I found an empty receptacle in a cabinet in our mudroom with the 2 white wires, 2 black wires, and 1 ground wire. One of the black wires has 120v with one of the white wires while the other pair has zero.



I'm assuming the pair with 0v is going to my "dead" outlet. I have no idea which circuit it's on so I'm going to cut power to the entire house and put the black wires in a wire nut together and do the same thing for the white wires. Any issues with this? Do I need to do anything with the loose ground? Thanks for any comments/suggestions.



Missing connection?










share|improve this question









New contributor




Guest is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.












I have an outlet in a small bar area that does not have any power coming in to the wires. It's been like this for as long as we've been here (4 years, house is 20 years old). I checked every breaker, every light switch, and every GFCI and it didn't appear to be attached to any of them. I found an empty receptacle in a cabinet in our mudroom with the 2 white wires, 2 black wires, and 1 ground wire. One of the black wires has 120v with one of the white wires while the other pair has zero.



I'm assuming the pair with 0v is going to my "dead" outlet. I have no idea which circuit it's on so I'm going to cut power to the entire house and put the black wires in a wire nut together and do the same thing for the white wires. Any issues with this? Do I need to do anything with the loose ground? Thanks for any comments/suggestions.



Missing connection?







electrical wiring






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edited 3 hours ago









Machavity

7,98621940




7,98621940






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asked 4 hours ago









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  • 1





    When in doubt, hook wires together and hope your house doesn’t burn down. But in reality, I would hire an electrician who can operate a circuit tracer to figure out what is actually going on snd why there is no power on that circuit.

    – statueuphemism
    4 hours ago












  • 1





    When in doubt, hook wires together and hope your house doesn’t burn down. But in reality, I would hire an electrician who can operate a circuit tracer to figure out what is actually going on snd why there is no power on that circuit.

    – statueuphemism
    4 hours ago







1




1





When in doubt, hook wires together and hope your house doesn’t burn down. But in reality, I would hire an electrician who can operate a circuit tracer to figure out what is actually going on snd why there is no power on that circuit.

– statueuphemism
4 hours ago





When in doubt, hook wires together and hope your house doesn’t burn down. But in reality, I would hire an electrician who can operate a circuit tracer to figure out what is actually going on snd why there is no power on that circuit.

– statueuphemism
4 hours ago










3 Answers
3






active

oldest

votes


















3














This is answer is based on the wires in the pictured box were found that way - just hanging loose - and not capped with wire nuts. If they were capped with wire nuts then I would much more likely (but not guaranteed) consider this more of a "are these the right wires - tone/test to find out" situation. But as is...




The problem is you don't know why the previous receptacle was removed from the box. The likely possibilities, which you are counting on, are:



  • There was something wrong with this receptacle, so it was removed, leaving these wires hanging. Nobody needed a receptacle here and nobody noticed or cared that another receptacle wasn't working and that was it.
    or

  • (As suggested by Harper): There was nothing really wrong with the receptacle here, but the previous owner had some reason to remove it - e.g., it was valuable (GFCI? Timer? Dimmer?) or it was flagged as a non-code-compliant device and removed. But the previous owner did it himself and didn't bother to cap the wires and didn't know or care about the other receptacle that stopped working.

But it is also possible:



  • Something was wrong with the circuit in general - e.g., the breaker wouldn't reset. Somebody removed this receptacle as part of the troubleshooting process. The problem went away. Nobody needed a receptacle here and, while they knew the other receptacle (the one you are trying to fix) wasn't working, they didn't care because the rest of the circuit was working again.

You have no way of knowing which of these scenarios (or some other one I haven't thought of) actually happened. As a result, while it is easy enough to connect these wires together and see if the receptacle works, you might be reactivating an old problem, such as:



  • A bad connection at the receptacle you are trying to fix, that might arc and cause a fire.

  • A damaged wire between this missing receptacle and the receptacle you are trying to fix, which might cause an intermittent hard to find until it is too late problem, causing a fire.

  • A damaged wire leading from the previous receptacle to this missing receptacle that has a problem that isn't evident when there is no current flowing (as there hasn't been since the receptacle was removed).

You simply don't know.



Are there ways to check things out? Yes. You can test the wires in each section to make sure they are low resistance and not shorted. You can check (even replace) the broken receptacle to avoid any problems there. But you are starting in a really bad place - with a receptacle that was removed and the wires were not properly capped. So you really don't know what is going on with these wires.



Anyone who would leave the wires hanging doesn't know electrical safety 101. What other problems might be lurking???






share|improve this answer
































    0














    An easier way to figure this out is to use a tone generator. What you can do is hook the generator to the wires in your existing outlet and use the wand to see if it's hooked to that. No tone there means it's not the wires to your outlet. It might also provide you a clue where it might be hooked up.



    It's also safer, since you aren't hooking up electricity and crossing your fingers that it doesn't end in more cut wires somewhere else.






    share|improve this answer

























    • This is the safe way to check for continuity between the two locations. But it still leaves open the question of "was there something else wrong that the wires were left this way?"

      – manassehkatz
      3 hours ago


















    0














    Hmm. That setup with the added particle board wall being very, very proud of the receptacle is not a pretty thing. I suspect either there was a receptacle here that was ripped out because the home inspector redflagged it, or there was a valuable device here like a GFCI that the seller wanted to take with him.



    Either way, I don't see a problem with your strategy to splice.



    However, you will need a proper junction box cover here. They make steel blank covers that are quite narrow. Look for one small enough that you can wangle it past the irksome particle-board, and have it make contact with the drywall behind. Drywall is acceptable as a "box extender" material because it's fireproof; particleboard is not.






    share|improve this answer























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      3 Answers
      3






      active

      oldest

      votes








      3 Answers
      3






      active

      oldest

      votes









      active

      oldest

      votes






      active

      oldest

      votes









      3














      This is answer is based on the wires in the pictured box were found that way - just hanging loose - and not capped with wire nuts. If they were capped with wire nuts then I would much more likely (but not guaranteed) consider this more of a "are these the right wires - tone/test to find out" situation. But as is...




      The problem is you don't know why the previous receptacle was removed from the box. The likely possibilities, which you are counting on, are:



      • There was something wrong with this receptacle, so it was removed, leaving these wires hanging. Nobody needed a receptacle here and nobody noticed or cared that another receptacle wasn't working and that was it.
        or

      • (As suggested by Harper): There was nothing really wrong with the receptacle here, but the previous owner had some reason to remove it - e.g., it was valuable (GFCI? Timer? Dimmer?) or it was flagged as a non-code-compliant device and removed. But the previous owner did it himself and didn't bother to cap the wires and didn't know or care about the other receptacle that stopped working.

      But it is also possible:



      • Something was wrong with the circuit in general - e.g., the breaker wouldn't reset. Somebody removed this receptacle as part of the troubleshooting process. The problem went away. Nobody needed a receptacle here and, while they knew the other receptacle (the one you are trying to fix) wasn't working, they didn't care because the rest of the circuit was working again.

      You have no way of knowing which of these scenarios (or some other one I haven't thought of) actually happened. As a result, while it is easy enough to connect these wires together and see if the receptacle works, you might be reactivating an old problem, such as:



      • A bad connection at the receptacle you are trying to fix, that might arc and cause a fire.

      • A damaged wire between this missing receptacle and the receptacle you are trying to fix, which might cause an intermittent hard to find until it is too late problem, causing a fire.

      • A damaged wire leading from the previous receptacle to this missing receptacle that has a problem that isn't evident when there is no current flowing (as there hasn't been since the receptacle was removed).

      You simply don't know.



      Are there ways to check things out? Yes. You can test the wires in each section to make sure they are low resistance and not shorted. You can check (even replace) the broken receptacle to avoid any problems there. But you are starting in a really bad place - with a receptacle that was removed and the wires were not properly capped. So you really don't know what is going on with these wires.



      Anyone who would leave the wires hanging doesn't know electrical safety 101. What other problems might be lurking???






      share|improve this answer





























        3














        This is answer is based on the wires in the pictured box were found that way - just hanging loose - and not capped with wire nuts. If they were capped with wire nuts then I would much more likely (but not guaranteed) consider this more of a "are these the right wires - tone/test to find out" situation. But as is...




        The problem is you don't know why the previous receptacle was removed from the box. The likely possibilities, which you are counting on, are:



        • There was something wrong with this receptacle, so it was removed, leaving these wires hanging. Nobody needed a receptacle here and nobody noticed or cared that another receptacle wasn't working and that was it.
          or

        • (As suggested by Harper): There was nothing really wrong with the receptacle here, but the previous owner had some reason to remove it - e.g., it was valuable (GFCI? Timer? Dimmer?) or it was flagged as a non-code-compliant device and removed. But the previous owner did it himself and didn't bother to cap the wires and didn't know or care about the other receptacle that stopped working.

        But it is also possible:



        • Something was wrong with the circuit in general - e.g., the breaker wouldn't reset. Somebody removed this receptacle as part of the troubleshooting process. The problem went away. Nobody needed a receptacle here and, while they knew the other receptacle (the one you are trying to fix) wasn't working, they didn't care because the rest of the circuit was working again.

        You have no way of knowing which of these scenarios (or some other one I haven't thought of) actually happened. As a result, while it is easy enough to connect these wires together and see if the receptacle works, you might be reactivating an old problem, such as:



        • A bad connection at the receptacle you are trying to fix, that might arc and cause a fire.

        • A damaged wire between this missing receptacle and the receptacle you are trying to fix, which might cause an intermittent hard to find until it is too late problem, causing a fire.

        • A damaged wire leading from the previous receptacle to this missing receptacle that has a problem that isn't evident when there is no current flowing (as there hasn't been since the receptacle was removed).

        You simply don't know.



        Are there ways to check things out? Yes. You can test the wires in each section to make sure they are low resistance and not shorted. You can check (even replace) the broken receptacle to avoid any problems there. But you are starting in a really bad place - with a receptacle that was removed and the wires were not properly capped. So you really don't know what is going on with these wires.



        Anyone who would leave the wires hanging doesn't know electrical safety 101. What other problems might be lurking???






        share|improve this answer



























          3












          3








          3







          This is answer is based on the wires in the pictured box were found that way - just hanging loose - and not capped with wire nuts. If they were capped with wire nuts then I would much more likely (but not guaranteed) consider this more of a "are these the right wires - tone/test to find out" situation. But as is...




          The problem is you don't know why the previous receptacle was removed from the box. The likely possibilities, which you are counting on, are:



          • There was something wrong with this receptacle, so it was removed, leaving these wires hanging. Nobody needed a receptacle here and nobody noticed or cared that another receptacle wasn't working and that was it.
            or

          • (As suggested by Harper): There was nothing really wrong with the receptacle here, but the previous owner had some reason to remove it - e.g., it was valuable (GFCI? Timer? Dimmer?) or it was flagged as a non-code-compliant device and removed. But the previous owner did it himself and didn't bother to cap the wires and didn't know or care about the other receptacle that stopped working.

          But it is also possible:



          • Something was wrong with the circuit in general - e.g., the breaker wouldn't reset. Somebody removed this receptacle as part of the troubleshooting process. The problem went away. Nobody needed a receptacle here and, while they knew the other receptacle (the one you are trying to fix) wasn't working, they didn't care because the rest of the circuit was working again.

          You have no way of knowing which of these scenarios (or some other one I haven't thought of) actually happened. As a result, while it is easy enough to connect these wires together and see if the receptacle works, you might be reactivating an old problem, such as:



          • A bad connection at the receptacle you are trying to fix, that might arc and cause a fire.

          • A damaged wire between this missing receptacle and the receptacle you are trying to fix, which might cause an intermittent hard to find until it is too late problem, causing a fire.

          • A damaged wire leading from the previous receptacle to this missing receptacle that has a problem that isn't evident when there is no current flowing (as there hasn't been since the receptacle was removed).

          You simply don't know.



          Are there ways to check things out? Yes. You can test the wires in each section to make sure they are low resistance and not shorted. You can check (even replace) the broken receptacle to avoid any problems there. But you are starting in a really bad place - with a receptacle that was removed and the wires were not properly capped. So you really don't know what is going on with these wires.



          Anyone who would leave the wires hanging doesn't know electrical safety 101. What other problems might be lurking???






          share|improve this answer















          This is answer is based on the wires in the pictured box were found that way - just hanging loose - and not capped with wire nuts. If they were capped with wire nuts then I would much more likely (but not guaranteed) consider this more of a "are these the right wires - tone/test to find out" situation. But as is...




          The problem is you don't know why the previous receptacle was removed from the box. The likely possibilities, which you are counting on, are:



          • There was something wrong with this receptacle, so it was removed, leaving these wires hanging. Nobody needed a receptacle here and nobody noticed or cared that another receptacle wasn't working and that was it.
            or

          • (As suggested by Harper): There was nothing really wrong with the receptacle here, but the previous owner had some reason to remove it - e.g., it was valuable (GFCI? Timer? Dimmer?) or it was flagged as a non-code-compliant device and removed. But the previous owner did it himself and didn't bother to cap the wires and didn't know or care about the other receptacle that stopped working.

          But it is also possible:



          • Something was wrong with the circuit in general - e.g., the breaker wouldn't reset. Somebody removed this receptacle as part of the troubleshooting process. The problem went away. Nobody needed a receptacle here and, while they knew the other receptacle (the one you are trying to fix) wasn't working, they didn't care because the rest of the circuit was working again.

          You have no way of knowing which of these scenarios (or some other one I haven't thought of) actually happened. As a result, while it is easy enough to connect these wires together and see if the receptacle works, you might be reactivating an old problem, such as:



          • A bad connection at the receptacle you are trying to fix, that might arc and cause a fire.

          • A damaged wire between this missing receptacle and the receptacle you are trying to fix, which might cause an intermittent hard to find until it is too late problem, causing a fire.

          • A damaged wire leading from the previous receptacle to this missing receptacle that has a problem that isn't evident when there is no current flowing (as there hasn't been since the receptacle was removed).

          You simply don't know.



          Are there ways to check things out? Yes. You can test the wires in each section to make sure they are low resistance and not shorted. You can check (even replace) the broken receptacle to avoid any problems there. But you are starting in a really bad place - with a receptacle that was removed and the wires were not properly capped. So you really don't know what is going on with these wires.



          Anyone who would leave the wires hanging doesn't know electrical safety 101. What other problems might be lurking???







          share|improve this answer














          share|improve this answer



          share|improve this answer








          edited 2 hours ago

























          answered 3 hours ago









          manassehkatzmanassehkatz

          10.2k1337




          10.2k1337























              0














              An easier way to figure this out is to use a tone generator. What you can do is hook the generator to the wires in your existing outlet and use the wand to see if it's hooked to that. No tone there means it's not the wires to your outlet. It might also provide you a clue where it might be hooked up.



              It's also safer, since you aren't hooking up electricity and crossing your fingers that it doesn't end in more cut wires somewhere else.






              share|improve this answer

























              • This is the safe way to check for continuity between the two locations. But it still leaves open the question of "was there something else wrong that the wires were left this way?"

                – manassehkatz
                3 hours ago















              0














              An easier way to figure this out is to use a tone generator. What you can do is hook the generator to the wires in your existing outlet and use the wand to see if it's hooked to that. No tone there means it's not the wires to your outlet. It might also provide you a clue where it might be hooked up.



              It's also safer, since you aren't hooking up electricity and crossing your fingers that it doesn't end in more cut wires somewhere else.






              share|improve this answer

























              • This is the safe way to check for continuity between the two locations. But it still leaves open the question of "was there something else wrong that the wires were left this way?"

                – manassehkatz
                3 hours ago













              0












              0








              0







              An easier way to figure this out is to use a tone generator. What you can do is hook the generator to the wires in your existing outlet and use the wand to see if it's hooked to that. No tone there means it's not the wires to your outlet. It might also provide you a clue where it might be hooked up.



              It's also safer, since you aren't hooking up electricity and crossing your fingers that it doesn't end in more cut wires somewhere else.






              share|improve this answer















              An easier way to figure this out is to use a tone generator. What you can do is hook the generator to the wires in your existing outlet and use the wand to see if it's hooked to that. No tone there means it's not the wires to your outlet. It might also provide you a clue where it might be hooked up.



              It's also safer, since you aren't hooking up electricity and crossing your fingers that it doesn't end in more cut wires somewhere else.







              share|improve this answer














              share|improve this answer



              share|improve this answer








              edited 3 hours ago

























              answered 3 hours ago









              MachavityMachavity

              7,98621940




              7,98621940












              • This is the safe way to check for continuity between the two locations. But it still leaves open the question of "was there something else wrong that the wires were left this way?"

                – manassehkatz
                3 hours ago

















              • This is the safe way to check for continuity between the two locations. But it still leaves open the question of "was there something else wrong that the wires were left this way?"

                – manassehkatz
                3 hours ago
















              This is the safe way to check for continuity between the two locations. But it still leaves open the question of "was there something else wrong that the wires were left this way?"

              – manassehkatz
              3 hours ago





              This is the safe way to check for continuity between the two locations. But it still leaves open the question of "was there something else wrong that the wires were left this way?"

              – manassehkatz
              3 hours ago











              0














              Hmm. That setup with the added particle board wall being very, very proud of the receptacle is not a pretty thing. I suspect either there was a receptacle here that was ripped out because the home inspector redflagged it, or there was a valuable device here like a GFCI that the seller wanted to take with him.



              Either way, I don't see a problem with your strategy to splice.



              However, you will need a proper junction box cover here. They make steel blank covers that are quite narrow. Look for one small enough that you can wangle it past the irksome particle-board, and have it make contact with the drywall behind. Drywall is acceptable as a "box extender" material because it's fireproof; particleboard is not.






              share|improve this answer



























                0














                Hmm. That setup with the added particle board wall being very, very proud of the receptacle is not a pretty thing. I suspect either there was a receptacle here that was ripped out because the home inspector redflagged it, or there was a valuable device here like a GFCI that the seller wanted to take with him.



                Either way, I don't see a problem with your strategy to splice.



                However, you will need a proper junction box cover here. They make steel blank covers that are quite narrow. Look for one small enough that you can wangle it past the irksome particle-board, and have it make contact with the drywall behind. Drywall is acceptable as a "box extender" material because it's fireproof; particleboard is not.






                share|improve this answer

























                  0












                  0








                  0







                  Hmm. That setup with the added particle board wall being very, very proud of the receptacle is not a pretty thing. I suspect either there was a receptacle here that was ripped out because the home inspector redflagged it, or there was a valuable device here like a GFCI that the seller wanted to take with him.



                  Either way, I don't see a problem with your strategy to splice.



                  However, you will need a proper junction box cover here. They make steel blank covers that are quite narrow. Look for one small enough that you can wangle it past the irksome particle-board, and have it make contact with the drywall behind. Drywall is acceptable as a "box extender" material because it's fireproof; particleboard is not.






                  share|improve this answer













                  Hmm. That setup with the added particle board wall being very, very proud of the receptacle is not a pretty thing. I suspect either there was a receptacle here that was ripped out because the home inspector redflagged it, or there was a valuable device here like a GFCI that the seller wanted to take with him.



                  Either way, I don't see a problem with your strategy to splice.



                  However, you will need a proper junction box cover here. They make steel blank covers that are quite narrow. Look for one small enough that you can wangle it past the irksome particle-board, and have it make contact with the drywall behind. Drywall is acceptable as a "box extender" material because it's fireproof; particleboard is not.







                  share|improve this answer












                  share|improve this answer



                  share|improve this answer










                  answered 2 hours ago









                  HarperHarper

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